Bad Habits/Behaviours
Cats
Peeing outside the litter box:
One cause for peeing outside the litter box is a urinary tract infection. This is the first thing you should make sure is not the case for your cat. By taking him/her to the vet they can determine if there is an infection in which case your pet may need antibiotics or a special diet (which should be a grain-free diet high in moisture). There are also cranberry supplements you can add to your pet's food in order to prevent urinary tract infections if they are prone to it.
Another cause for peeing outside the litter box can be stress or stubbornness. If this is the case, it is best to add an extra litter box where your cat is peeing. There is also a pheromone clay litter that can be used that specifically attracts the cat to go in the litter box. Or, you can buy the pheromone powder and add it to your current litter. This is amazing and works really well for most cats! I even think they give you a money back guarantee for this pheromone product. It is essential though, that you clean the spots where the cat was peeing with an enzymatic and microbial cleaner. This way, the enzymes break apart the urine so the live microbes can eat it up leaving virtually no trace of where the urine was. That way the cat will not go in the same spot just because it smells like the new bathroom.
There are also other pheromones that can calm the cat that you can plug directly into an outlet or are even in a collar (if the cat tolerates collars). Those certainly help the cat become less stressed, but usually do not show the cat where to go potty, so the pheromone in the litter would work better in this case. Adding an extra litter box is a great idea. Some cats just need an extra place to go. It is usually recommended that you have one litter box on each floor that the cat has access to, and that you have one extra litter box per number of cats you have. If you have four cats, then you should have five litter boxes. It is just a suggestion that I found most vets recommend. If none of these things work, you should consult your vet.
If your cat is pooping and peeing outside of the litter box he/she may not like the type of litter that is being used. Try using a different texture litter (some are finer than others and some are non-clumping pellets, while others can clump like clay). It is recommended that ground walnut shells, or wheat litters are safer than a clumping clay. Sometimes, the clumping litters can get stuck in a cat's paw, and as they lick their paw to remove it they swallow the clay where it gets stuck in their intestines and causes dangerous blockages. This happens more often in kittens and senior cats.
Digging up plants:
Some cats like the feeling of digging up soil. I heard that a trick to avoid dead plants is a bowl of coffee grounds placed next to the pot. Apparently cats do not like the smell of coffee! Be careful, because some house plants are poisonous to pets, so don't let them eat the plant that they dig up. You can also get or grow your own cat grass (also called wheat grass) that your kitty can play in and chew on safely. Cat grass causes most cats to vomit and clear their throat of any hairballs, and many cats will munch on it when they feel sick. Another trick to prevent the digging of house plants can be adding heavy rocks on top of the soil. This way the cat can no longer move the soil around and make a mess.
Scratching furniture:
Most of the time cats just need to wear down their sharp claws. There are sprays you can use to scare the cat from clawing the furniture or you can use water, but what about the times when you are not there to catch the cat red handed...or red pawed? Like I mentioned in "peeing outside the litter box" there are calming pheromones that you can use to calm the kitty from scratching, but the best way to let the cat scratch his/her nails is to buy a scratching post (or you may need to replace your old one). Cardboard scratching posts are becoming increasingly popular, and it is cheaper to buy those than to buy a new couch! You can even entice your kitty to scratch the right thing by spraying catnip on the new post.
Cat fights:
Cat fights can happen for any number of reasons. The best solution is to keep the cat away from whatever it is that is triggering him/her to fight. If that is impossible, then there are options like pheromone collars (calming collars) or pheromone plug-ins that plug into an outlet. Pheromones work really well with cats and the specific ones that are used to calm your cat are the same ones that would be released from a mommy cat to calm her kittens. I have seen calming collars work wonders on cats that would not stop fighting and hissing at other cats. It is safe and highly effective, but most pheromones only last form a month to three months then need replacing/refilling.
Pickiness to food/Unwilling to eat:
Many cats are simply picky animals and will put their meals on "strike" until they get what they want, but if your cat ever stops eating something he/she normally loves then your pet may have a dental problem. A lose or infected tooth can be painful and may be the cause of a sudden lose of appetite. It could be something more serious too (especially if they show signs of difficulty drinking and eating). Many cats swallow threads or sewing needles that can get tangled or lodged in their mouths. These pets should see a vet immediately.
More often than not though, cats are just finicky! Some cats expect a different type of canned food each meal. Some cats only eat the gravy and leave all the meat until later. The truth is, a cat will eat anything if he/she is hungry enough, but it is nice to give them a variety of choices anyway. If your cat really won't eat anything you tried, you can always try adding a special treat on top of their food or mixed into the cans. A favorite amongst fish lovers is dried bonito flakes (which is extremely high in protein and good for your kitty). Those can crumble right on top of the food. You can also add freeze-dried raw food sprinkled on top maybe mixed with a little warm water (which often brings out that stinky, lovely smell of food). Those are very healthy snacks for your cat, and he/she thinks it is just a yummy treat.
Allergies to food:
Sometimes, a cat's eyes can produce excess goo around them. Sometimes, their fur doesn't look as shiny, or they start to scratch more and roll around to relieve that itch. Some cats sneeze more than usual and get boogers. Some older cats can even show an increased sign of arthritis. Many times, this can be the cause of a food allergy (or even an environmental allergy). Most cat foods contain chicken and fish, so that is all they eat for most of their lives. It is very easy to develop an allergy to those common foods. They are even in many cat treats, and seem unavoidable. However, there are many other choices in pet foods too. You can try a duck, or turkey. Oftentimes pets who are allergic to chicken may only be allergic to that specific protein found in the chicken. This means they may not be allergic to the chicken's fat, eggs, or other poultry such as duck and turkey. Other times when a pet is allergic to chicken they can be allergic to all feathers, which would mean your pet is allergic to also ducks and turkey and quail. In that case, you can try beef, lamb, venison, fish, etc.
Another thing to keep in mind when feeding your cat fish, is how much fish they are getting and what type of fish they are eating. As you should know, fish contains mercury, and the larger the fish the more mercury is found in that fish. For example, prawns have a very small amount of mercury because they mainly eat plankton and other small fish/shrimps. Then a tuna would eat the prawn and get all of that extra mercury in the tuna. A swordfish eats the tuna and has even larger amounts of mercury. Too much mercury can cause mercury poisoning which is a horrible, serious, and deadly condition. I would recommend giving your cat smaller fish, like anchovies, or even crab and shrimp (if they like that) as a way to lower their mercury levels in their body. They certainly should not be eating swordfish every night.
People allergies to cats:
Allergies are still very strange topics, because no one really understands how they start and how people can outgrow them over time. One thing that we do know, is that you can control or minimize your allergies to your pets. You don't have to get rid of the cat! Most people only know that pet dander causes allergies, and yes it does, so the best way to reduce that is by brushing your cat regularly. You don't want to give your cat too many baths (maybe only once a month), because it removes their skin's natural oils and prevent it from drying out. There are wipes that help reduce their dander too. You can vacuum their hair from floors and furniture as well. BUT, dander is not the only cause of allergies to pets. They also have allergens in their urine, so regular cleaning of the litter box can GREATLY reduce your allergies. Avoid sleeping with your cat near your face if you can help it. This will make sure you can breathe better while you sleep. Another thing to help your pet maintain a good coat (and less dander) is an omega supplement. Most of these are in the form of fish oil, but you can also find flax seed oil, hemp oil, etc. for your pet in a liquid form or gel capsule which you add to their meals. This again, keeps their coat healthier and stronger so it will shed less. Good luck controlling those allergies, and remember, you can out grow your allergy at any time and any age!
One cause for peeing outside the litter box is a urinary tract infection. This is the first thing you should make sure is not the case for your cat. By taking him/her to the vet they can determine if there is an infection in which case your pet may need antibiotics or a special diet (which should be a grain-free diet high in moisture). There are also cranberry supplements you can add to your pet's food in order to prevent urinary tract infections if they are prone to it.
Another cause for peeing outside the litter box can be stress or stubbornness. If this is the case, it is best to add an extra litter box where your cat is peeing. There is also a pheromone clay litter that can be used that specifically attracts the cat to go in the litter box. Or, you can buy the pheromone powder and add it to your current litter. This is amazing and works really well for most cats! I even think they give you a money back guarantee for this pheromone product. It is essential though, that you clean the spots where the cat was peeing with an enzymatic and microbial cleaner. This way, the enzymes break apart the urine so the live microbes can eat it up leaving virtually no trace of where the urine was. That way the cat will not go in the same spot just because it smells like the new bathroom.
There are also other pheromones that can calm the cat that you can plug directly into an outlet or are even in a collar (if the cat tolerates collars). Those certainly help the cat become less stressed, but usually do not show the cat where to go potty, so the pheromone in the litter would work better in this case. Adding an extra litter box is a great idea. Some cats just need an extra place to go. It is usually recommended that you have one litter box on each floor that the cat has access to, and that you have one extra litter box per number of cats you have. If you have four cats, then you should have five litter boxes. It is just a suggestion that I found most vets recommend. If none of these things work, you should consult your vet.
If your cat is pooping and peeing outside of the litter box he/she may not like the type of litter that is being used. Try using a different texture litter (some are finer than others and some are non-clumping pellets, while others can clump like clay). It is recommended that ground walnut shells, or wheat litters are safer than a clumping clay. Sometimes, the clumping litters can get stuck in a cat's paw, and as they lick their paw to remove it they swallow the clay where it gets stuck in their intestines and causes dangerous blockages. This happens more often in kittens and senior cats.
Digging up plants:
Some cats like the feeling of digging up soil. I heard that a trick to avoid dead plants is a bowl of coffee grounds placed next to the pot. Apparently cats do not like the smell of coffee! Be careful, because some house plants are poisonous to pets, so don't let them eat the plant that they dig up. You can also get or grow your own cat grass (also called wheat grass) that your kitty can play in and chew on safely. Cat grass causes most cats to vomit and clear their throat of any hairballs, and many cats will munch on it when they feel sick. Another trick to prevent the digging of house plants can be adding heavy rocks on top of the soil. This way the cat can no longer move the soil around and make a mess.
Scratching furniture:
Most of the time cats just need to wear down their sharp claws. There are sprays you can use to scare the cat from clawing the furniture or you can use water, but what about the times when you are not there to catch the cat red handed...or red pawed? Like I mentioned in "peeing outside the litter box" there are calming pheromones that you can use to calm the kitty from scratching, but the best way to let the cat scratch his/her nails is to buy a scratching post (or you may need to replace your old one). Cardboard scratching posts are becoming increasingly popular, and it is cheaper to buy those than to buy a new couch! You can even entice your kitty to scratch the right thing by spraying catnip on the new post.
Cat fights:
Cat fights can happen for any number of reasons. The best solution is to keep the cat away from whatever it is that is triggering him/her to fight. If that is impossible, then there are options like pheromone collars (calming collars) or pheromone plug-ins that plug into an outlet. Pheromones work really well with cats and the specific ones that are used to calm your cat are the same ones that would be released from a mommy cat to calm her kittens. I have seen calming collars work wonders on cats that would not stop fighting and hissing at other cats. It is safe and highly effective, but most pheromones only last form a month to three months then need replacing/refilling.
Pickiness to food/Unwilling to eat:
Many cats are simply picky animals and will put their meals on "strike" until they get what they want, but if your cat ever stops eating something he/she normally loves then your pet may have a dental problem. A lose or infected tooth can be painful and may be the cause of a sudden lose of appetite. It could be something more serious too (especially if they show signs of difficulty drinking and eating). Many cats swallow threads or sewing needles that can get tangled or lodged in their mouths. These pets should see a vet immediately.
More often than not though, cats are just finicky! Some cats expect a different type of canned food each meal. Some cats only eat the gravy and leave all the meat until later. The truth is, a cat will eat anything if he/she is hungry enough, but it is nice to give them a variety of choices anyway. If your cat really won't eat anything you tried, you can always try adding a special treat on top of their food or mixed into the cans. A favorite amongst fish lovers is dried bonito flakes (which is extremely high in protein and good for your kitty). Those can crumble right on top of the food. You can also add freeze-dried raw food sprinkled on top maybe mixed with a little warm water (which often brings out that stinky, lovely smell of food). Those are very healthy snacks for your cat, and he/she thinks it is just a yummy treat.
Allergies to food:
Sometimes, a cat's eyes can produce excess goo around them. Sometimes, their fur doesn't look as shiny, or they start to scratch more and roll around to relieve that itch. Some cats sneeze more than usual and get boogers. Some older cats can even show an increased sign of arthritis. Many times, this can be the cause of a food allergy (or even an environmental allergy). Most cat foods contain chicken and fish, so that is all they eat for most of their lives. It is very easy to develop an allergy to those common foods. They are even in many cat treats, and seem unavoidable. However, there are many other choices in pet foods too. You can try a duck, or turkey. Oftentimes pets who are allergic to chicken may only be allergic to that specific protein found in the chicken. This means they may not be allergic to the chicken's fat, eggs, or other poultry such as duck and turkey. Other times when a pet is allergic to chicken they can be allergic to all feathers, which would mean your pet is allergic to also ducks and turkey and quail. In that case, you can try beef, lamb, venison, fish, etc.
Another thing to keep in mind when feeding your cat fish, is how much fish they are getting and what type of fish they are eating. As you should know, fish contains mercury, and the larger the fish the more mercury is found in that fish. For example, prawns have a very small amount of mercury because they mainly eat plankton and other small fish/shrimps. Then a tuna would eat the prawn and get all of that extra mercury in the tuna. A swordfish eats the tuna and has even larger amounts of mercury. Too much mercury can cause mercury poisoning which is a horrible, serious, and deadly condition. I would recommend giving your cat smaller fish, like anchovies, or even crab and shrimp (if they like that) as a way to lower their mercury levels in their body. They certainly should not be eating swordfish every night.
People allergies to cats:
Allergies are still very strange topics, because no one really understands how they start and how people can outgrow them over time. One thing that we do know, is that you can control or minimize your allergies to your pets. You don't have to get rid of the cat! Most people only know that pet dander causes allergies, and yes it does, so the best way to reduce that is by brushing your cat regularly. You don't want to give your cat too many baths (maybe only once a month), because it removes their skin's natural oils and prevent it from drying out. There are wipes that help reduce their dander too. You can vacuum their hair from floors and furniture as well. BUT, dander is not the only cause of allergies to pets. They also have allergens in their urine, so regular cleaning of the litter box can GREATLY reduce your allergies. Avoid sleeping with your cat near your face if you can help it. This will make sure you can breathe better while you sleep. Another thing to help your pet maintain a good coat (and less dander) is an omega supplement. Most of these are in the form of fish oil, but you can also find flax seed oil, hemp oil, etc. for your pet in a liquid form or gel capsule which you add to their meals. This again, keeps their coat healthier and stronger so it will shed less. Good luck controlling those allergies, and remember, you can out grow your allergy at any time and any age!
Dogs
House breaking (going potty outside):
The main trick to successful puppy training is to always catch the puppy in action. You need to stop the puppy from going potty in the house and move them outside as quickly as possible. Always use positive reinforcement to praise your pup when going potty outside. Lots of praise/happy tones and treats are the key. It is difficult sometimes to always catch your dog in the act of going potty in the house. There are several techniques to be aware of when your pet needs to go to the bathroom. Usually, puppies need to poop right when they wake up from a long nap/sleep, and right after eating a meal. Always let your pup outside after those situations and encourage them to go to the bathroom (verbal cues can be easily rewarded with a treat). Sometimes, if you are home with the new pup, you can tie a leash to your puppy's collar and the end around your belt loops or waist. This way you will know exactly when your puppy squats to go potty in the house and you can rush them to the great outdoors. Another thing that is really simple to do, is to train your puppy to ring a door bell when he/she needs to go outside. Keep the bell near the door that you want the dog to go outside through. Every time you go outside with your pup, go through that door and make your puppy ring the bell (either with his/her paw or nose) then give your dog a treat and go outside. Give them another treat when/if they go potty outside too. In just a few days, you would be so surprised at how your new puppy wants to go outside all the time to get those treats. They can even abuse their privilege and constantly ring the bell too...
Puppy teething:
While a puppy playfully nibbling your finger is adorable, it can be dangerous when the dog is full grown and the nibbling turns into damaging biting. It is best to discourage any biting or teething on people or other pets. The best way to stop your puppy from biting something he/she is not supposed to, is by replacing the object with something that he can chew on safely. Nylabones (if the right size for your breed and age) are usually great puppy teethers. Many bones of the nylabone brand are made in the United States, while others are made in China (so just read the labels). They are actually made of nylon fibers and are therefore completely digestible if your puppy breaks up little pieces. You ALWAYS want to watch your dog (any age dog) when giving them something new, especially to chew on, because breaking off big chunks and swallowing the chunks whole can easily get lodged or blocked in the dog's intestines which may require immediate surgery. Usually, nylabones do not break off in big chunks. Another thing to avoid is any hide of an animal. Rawhides are indigestible. While many dogs chew them and soften them into little squishy mushy balls of animal hide, they do not break down in the dog's digestive system and are often the cause of blockages. I would never recommend rawhides to any dog of any breed or any age. Mind you, some dogs have been eating them for years and never had any problems, but it is still a risk that I would never take for my pet. For puppies a safe body part for them to chew on is pig or cow noses. These are usually puffed up (bland) and not very fatty or greasy (so no risk of a too rich snack that may lead to diarrhea). They also have many enzymes that are really beneficial to growing puppies. Lamb ears, cow ears, and pig ears have the same effect if they are not the greasy fatty type. The greasier ears and body parts often cause stomach upset to puppies. Those are better when the puppy has fully developed his/her digestive system around one year to two years old.
Strong and tough toys are excellent for puppies as well. Lots of puppies enjoy different textures and toys with noises (squeakers) in their mouth. The best way to keep a puppy happy and healthy is to engage him/her in a various of uses of his/her senses. Squeakers or rattles, soft or rubbery, all of these toys are great options for your pet. Like I mentioned earlier, it is essential to WATCH your puppy and make sure he/she does not consume their toy. And remember, there is no such thing as an indestructible toy. The fun of getting a new toy is often figuring out all the ways to destroy that toy. Toys are often made to be destroyed so we have to buy more of them. It may not seem very fair to the consumer, but that is the truth.
Good luck with your teething pet, and remember that for dogs, adult teeth grow in at 6-7 months of age. That can be the time when their teething habits are strongest.
Aggression issues:
Most of the times aggression issues is actually a dominance issue; however, I believe it can also be a fear or lack of self confidence issue in situations where the dog is uncertain about his/her safety. Each dominant aggressive case is different and may require the help of a professional dog trainer. The main goal is usually to take your place as the leader of the pack in the eyes of your dog, so in turn your dog respects you and listens to you. It can also create an amazing bond between owner and dog. Taking your place as the pack leader means not letting your dog be priority. You come first in the hierarchy, so you eat first and leave/enter the house first. You greet new strangers first too. Often times, I find it helpful to observe films of how wolves behave in a pack to better understand your role as the leader (or alpha). Positive reinforcement though is key. If you are showing aggression to your dog as the leader, he/she will often follow in your behaviour and be aggressive himself/herself, but if you remain calm your pet will follow. This is why electrostatic shock collars should never be used on already aggressive behaviours.
Allergies to foods/environment:
Like I had stated under the cat allergies to food section, it is common for dogs to develop allergies to something they eat very often. Some dogs are more sensitive to developing allergies than others. Interestingly though, it is incredibly common for lightly colored (white or yellow dogs) to become sensitive to chicken. Often times this leads to brown stains under their eyes (which may also be a tear duct issue). Sometimes, brown stains develop in between the dog's toes which also indicates an allergy. Itchy, dry skin and dander are other possible signs of a possible allergy for your pet.
The best thing to do to help prevent allergies is to rotate the protein source of your pet's diet every 6 months or so. For example, stay with chicken for 6 months then gradually switch to lamb, beef, venison, or fish. Note that some proteins are more costly than others, so if you feel like you can spend a little extra on your pet for awhile then try the more exotic proteins. Your pet will likely appreciate the variety of food and his/her metabolism with be healthier. For more information read the pet nutrition section. I hear also that pets with allergies to just chicken protein, usually can still eat a raw diet with chicken in it. That might be because the raw chicken still contains all of the enzymes in it needed to digest the meat. This way your dog doesn't need to make his/her own enzymes and can process the food a little easier.
The same or similar symptoms occur if your dog has an environmental allergy too. The main difference would be that the symptoms are seasonal (usually the worst in spring, summer, or fall). If this is the case, you can talk to your vet about specific treatment options. There are also herbal choices that can help your pet too (which may require the help of a holistic vet). In an immediate swelling, either from a bee sting or other serious allergic reaction, Benadryl can be given to dogs too. I believe the dosage is similar to that of a child's dosing. You can confirm this with a vet tech too in an emergency or even reliable websites.
The main trick to successful puppy training is to always catch the puppy in action. You need to stop the puppy from going potty in the house and move them outside as quickly as possible. Always use positive reinforcement to praise your pup when going potty outside. Lots of praise/happy tones and treats are the key. It is difficult sometimes to always catch your dog in the act of going potty in the house. There are several techniques to be aware of when your pet needs to go to the bathroom. Usually, puppies need to poop right when they wake up from a long nap/sleep, and right after eating a meal. Always let your pup outside after those situations and encourage them to go to the bathroom (verbal cues can be easily rewarded with a treat). Sometimes, if you are home with the new pup, you can tie a leash to your puppy's collar and the end around your belt loops or waist. This way you will know exactly when your puppy squats to go potty in the house and you can rush them to the great outdoors. Another thing that is really simple to do, is to train your puppy to ring a door bell when he/she needs to go outside. Keep the bell near the door that you want the dog to go outside through. Every time you go outside with your pup, go through that door and make your puppy ring the bell (either with his/her paw or nose) then give your dog a treat and go outside. Give them another treat when/if they go potty outside too. In just a few days, you would be so surprised at how your new puppy wants to go outside all the time to get those treats. They can even abuse their privilege and constantly ring the bell too...
Puppy teething:
While a puppy playfully nibbling your finger is adorable, it can be dangerous when the dog is full grown and the nibbling turns into damaging biting. It is best to discourage any biting or teething on people or other pets. The best way to stop your puppy from biting something he/she is not supposed to, is by replacing the object with something that he can chew on safely. Nylabones (if the right size for your breed and age) are usually great puppy teethers. Many bones of the nylabone brand are made in the United States, while others are made in China (so just read the labels). They are actually made of nylon fibers and are therefore completely digestible if your puppy breaks up little pieces. You ALWAYS want to watch your dog (any age dog) when giving them something new, especially to chew on, because breaking off big chunks and swallowing the chunks whole can easily get lodged or blocked in the dog's intestines which may require immediate surgery. Usually, nylabones do not break off in big chunks. Another thing to avoid is any hide of an animal. Rawhides are indigestible. While many dogs chew them and soften them into little squishy mushy balls of animal hide, they do not break down in the dog's digestive system and are often the cause of blockages. I would never recommend rawhides to any dog of any breed or any age. Mind you, some dogs have been eating them for years and never had any problems, but it is still a risk that I would never take for my pet. For puppies a safe body part for them to chew on is pig or cow noses. These are usually puffed up (bland) and not very fatty or greasy (so no risk of a too rich snack that may lead to diarrhea). They also have many enzymes that are really beneficial to growing puppies. Lamb ears, cow ears, and pig ears have the same effect if they are not the greasy fatty type. The greasier ears and body parts often cause stomach upset to puppies. Those are better when the puppy has fully developed his/her digestive system around one year to two years old.
Strong and tough toys are excellent for puppies as well. Lots of puppies enjoy different textures and toys with noises (squeakers) in their mouth. The best way to keep a puppy happy and healthy is to engage him/her in a various of uses of his/her senses. Squeakers or rattles, soft or rubbery, all of these toys are great options for your pet. Like I mentioned earlier, it is essential to WATCH your puppy and make sure he/she does not consume their toy. And remember, there is no such thing as an indestructible toy. The fun of getting a new toy is often figuring out all the ways to destroy that toy. Toys are often made to be destroyed so we have to buy more of them. It may not seem very fair to the consumer, but that is the truth.
Good luck with your teething pet, and remember that for dogs, adult teeth grow in at 6-7 months of age. That can be the time when their teething habits are strongest.
Aggression issues:
Most of the times aggression issues is actually a dominance issue; however, I believe it can also be a fear or lack of self confidence issue in situations where the dog is uncertain about his/her safety. Each dominant aggressive case is different and may require the help of a professional dog trainer. The main goal is usually to take your place as the leader of the pack in the eyes of your dog, so in turn your dog respects you and listens to you. It can also create an amazing bond between owner and dog. Taking your place as the pack leader means not letting your dog be priority. You come first in the hierarchy, so you eat first and leave/enter the house first. You greet new strangers first too. Often times, I find it helpful to observe films of how wolves behave in a pack to better understand your role as the leader (or alpha). Positive reinforcement though is key. If you are showing aggression to your dog as the leader, he/she will often follow in your behaviour and be aggressive himself/herself, but if you remain calm your pet will follow. This is why electrostatic shock collars should never be used on already aggressive behaviours.
Allergies to foods/environment:
Like I had stated under the cat allergies to food section, it is common for dogs to develop allergies to something they eat very often. Some dogs are more sensitive to developing allergies than others. Interestingly though, it is incredibly common for lightly colored (white or yellow dogs) to become sensitive to chicken. Often times this leads to brown stains under their eyes (which may also be a tear duct issue). Sometimes, brown stains develop in between the dog's toes which also indicates an allergy. Itchy, dry skin and dander are other possible signs of a possible allergy for your pet.
The best thing to do to help prevent allergies is to rotate the protein source of your pet's diet every 6 months or so. For example, stay with chicken for 6 months then gradually switch to lamb, beef, venison, or fish. Note that some proteins are more costly than others, so if you feel like you can spend a little extra on your pet for awhile then try the more exotic proteins. Your pet will likely appreciate the variety of food and his/her metabolism with be healthier. For more information read the pet nutrition section. I hear also that pets with allergies to just chicken protein, usually can still eat a raw diet with chicken in it. That might be because the raw chicken still contains all of the enzymes in it needed to digest the meat. This way your dog doesn't need to make his/her own enzymes and can process the food a little easier.
The same or similar symptoms occur if your dog has an environmental allergy too. The main difference would be that the symptoms are seasonal (usually the worst in spring, summer, or fall). If this is the case, you can talk to your vet about specific treatment options. There are also herbal choices that can help your pet too (which may require the help of a holistic vet). In an immediate swelling, either from a bee sting or other serious allergic reaction, Benadryl can be given to dogs too. I believe the dosage is similar to that of a child's dosing. You can confirm this with a vet tech too in an emergency or even reliable websites.